Says Craig LaBan: There’s an admittedly amorphous, on-trend quality to Lauren Biederman’s Tesiny — the [raw bar](https://www.inquirer/food/oyster-bar-openings-aquaculture-sao-tesiny-fleurs-little-water-20250918.html), craft cocktails, and a chef’s-counter grill turning out shareable plates that resist easy classification as appetizers or entrees — that could just have easily landed in a buzzier restaurant district like [Fishtown](https://www.inquirer/topic/fishtown) or Rittenhouse Square. But there’s an extra pulse of intimacy in finding this polished 50-seat oasis in the heart of residential Dickinson Narrows, [a hotly debated neighborhood within a neighborhood](https://www.inquirer/real-estate/inq2/philadelphia-neighborhood-newbold-lomo-name-results-20250218.html) just east of [East Passyunk](https://www.inquirer/topic/east-passyunk). It’s upscale, averaging $80 per person for food and drinks, but already resonating as a destination, with up to 100 diners on busy nights.
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